Polyester's Plastic Origins: Recycled Or Not?

Polyester is a popular fabric used in clothing due to its lightweight, durable, and quick-drying properties, but its environmental impact has been a growing concern. Polyester is derived from polyethylene terephthalate (PET), the most common type of plastic in the world, which raises questions about its sustainability. To address this, some companies have turned to recycled polyester, also known as rPET, which is created by collecting and repurposing existing plastic, often from water bottles. This process gives new life to non-biodegradable materials and reduces the need for virgin polyester production, but it also has potential drawbacks, including the release of microplastics during washing and the use of chemicals and energy in production. As consumers and companies become more eco-conscious, understanding the complexities of recycled polyester is crucial for making informed choices and promoting sustainable practices in the fashion industry.

Recycled polyester gives new life to plastic

Polyester is a synthetic fabric derived from a polymer called polyethylene terephthalate (PET), the most common type of plastic in the world. As such, it is not a sustainable textile option. However, recycled polyester, also known as rPET, gives new life to plastic that would otherwise end up in landfills or the ocean.

Recycled polyester is created by collecting PET, usually in the form of used plastic bottles, and sorting, washing, and breaking down the material to be spun into yarn. This yarn can be adapted to include performance technologies like moisture-wicking and temperature regulation. The two main methods of recycling PET are mechanical and chemical. Mechanical recycling involves cleaning, chopping, melting, extruding, and texturizing the plastic to create fibres, while chemical recycling uses a series of chemicals to clean and break down the PET before spinning it into yarn. Mechanical recycling is the most common form due to its simplicity and ease of sourcing.

Using recycled polyester reduces the environmental impact of producing new polyester from petroleum. It diverts waste materials, such as plastic bottles, from landfills and requires less energy and resources than virgin polyester production. According to estimates, recycled polyester can reduce energy consumption by up to 59% and greenhouse gas emissions by up to 32%. Additionally, recycled polyester reduces CO2 emissions by up to 29% and water consumption by 16% compared to virgin polyester.

However, it is important to consider the negative impacts associated with recycled polyester production and use. The process of recycling polyester can require chemicals and energy, which may have negative environmental consequences. Additionally, microplastics released during washing can contribute to pollution. To address this, consumers can minimise washing and use filter washing bags to prevent microplastic pollution.

While recycled polyester may not be the solution to the fast-fashion problem, it gives new life to plastic waste and offers a more sustainable alternative to virgin polyester. By reducing the environmental impact of production and diverting plastic from landfills, recycled polyester takes a step towards a more eco-conscious future.

The process of recycling polyester

Polyester is a man-made synthetic material composed of polyethylene terephthalate (PET), the most common type of plastic in the world. While polyester is not a sustainable textile option, PET can be fully recycled. Recycled polyester, also known as rPET, is obtained by melting down existing plastic and re-spinning it into new polyester fibre.

At this stage, the filament is not yet ready to be used as thread. It is torn into short pieces to create staple fibres, which are then baled and go through a process called carding. Carding aligns all the fibres so that they are pointing in the same direction. Finally, the fibres are passed through a spinning machine to create recycled polyester yarn.

The recycled polyester yarn can be woven into fabrics, which may be dyed and sewn together to create garments or other products. Using 100% recycled polyester can significantly reduce CO2 emissions, energy consumption, and water consumption compared to using virgin polyester.

While recycling polyester can give a second life to non-biodegradable materials, it is important to consider the potential environmental impact of microplastics. Both virgin and recycled polyester can release microscopic plastic fibres during washing, contributing to microplastic pollution. To address this concern, consumers can minimize washing polyester items and use filter washing bags to prevent the release of microplastics into the environment.

Recycled polyester's environmental impact

Polyester is a popular material in the clothing industry, with about 49% of the world's clothing made from it. Forecasts show this will nearly double by 2030. However, polyester is not a sustainable option as it is made from polyethylene terephthalate (PET), the most common type of plastic in the world.

Recycled polyester, or rPET, is obtained by melting down existing plastic and re-spinning it into new polyester fibre. This gives a second life to a material that is not biodegradable and would otherwise end up in landfill or the ocean. rPET also has a smaller carbon footprint than its virgin counterpart and requires 59% less energy to produce.

However, there are concerns about the environmental impact of rPET. One issue is that the process of recycling PET can impact the environment, as the chips generated by mechanical recycling can vary in colour, leading to high levels of re-dyeing which requires a lot of water. Another concern is that rPET clothing is unlikely to be recycled again, as the technology for textile-to-textile recycling is still in its infancy, with only 1% of clothing currently being recycled. In addition, synthetic fabrics like polyester shed microfibers in the washing process, which can pollute oceans and be ingested by marine species.

Overall, while recycled polyester has a smaller environmental impact than virgin polyester, there are still concerns about its sustainability, particularly around the issues of microfibers and the limitations of textile-to-textile recycling.

Microplastics released during washing

Polyester is made from polyethylene terephthalate (PET), the most common type of plastic in the world. It is used in about 49% of the world's clothing and is favoured for its flexibility and resistance. However, it is not a sustainable option as it is made from crude oil. While recycled polyester gives a second life to plastic that would otherwise end up in landfills or the ocean, it is not without its drawbacks.

Synthetic fabrics like polyester are now widely used for clothing, carpets, and a variety of other products. During the manufacturing or cleaning process, these synthetic textiles can release microplastics into the environment. Microplastics are tiny plastic fragments formed when plastic breaks down due to mechanical or photochemical processes. They are an environmental hazard and can enter the ecosystem, putting biogenic fauna and flora at risk.

Washing household textiles has been identified as a significant source of microplastic contamination. Studies have shown that a single garment can release more than 1900 fibres per wash cycle, with almost all garments emitting more than 100 fibres per litre of wastewater. Higher temperatures also contribute to an increase in the release of microplastics, with a study finding that the strength of polyester decreased by about 5% at 200 °C and by 19% at 220 °C.

To address the issue of microplastic pollution from washing, some products have been developed to keep microplastics out of wastewater. These include laundry bags, such as the Guppyfriend laundry bag, and washing machine filters, like the Cora Ball and the filter sold by Girlfriend Collective. While these solutions may not solve the global problem, they can help reduce pollution on an individual scale. Additionally, some brands are strengthening their recycled material ambitions, with H&M Group collaborating with other industry players to achieve textile-to-textile recycled polyester.

The future of recycled polyester

Polyester is the most popular material used in the fashion and textile industry. It is made from polyethylene terephthalate (PET), the most common type of plastic in the world. About 49% of the world's clothing is made of polyester, and forecasts show this will nearly double by 2030. However, polyester is not a sustainable option as it is derived from crude oil.

The good news is that recycled polyester, also known as rPET, gives a second life to a material that is not biodegradable and would otherwise end up in landfill or the ocean. Recycled polyester is obtained by melting down existing plastic and re-spinning it into a new polyester fibre. For example, five plastic water bottles yield enough fibre for one t-shirt. While recycling plastic seems like a win for sustainability, rPET has its pros and cons.

The pros of rPET include:

• Reducing landfill
• Requiring 59% less energy in production

The cons of rPET include:

• Limitations in recycling plastic
• Environmental impact
• The release of microplastics during washing

Despite these challenges, many major brands are committing to rPET. For example, Adidas has pledged to use only recycled polyester in its products by 2024, and Patagonia has been using rPET since 1993. H&M Group is also collaborating with Syre to develop textile-to-textile recycled polyester.

To further drive the shift towards recycled polyester, the Textile Exchange launched the 2025 Recycled Polyester Challenge in 2021, in partnership with the United Nations Framework Convention on Climate Action. This initiative calls on companies to commit to sourcing from 45% to 100% of their polyester from recycled sources by 2025.

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