Omar Khalid
The use of the term leather to describe plastic materials is a contentious issue. While some manufacturers may use this terminology to imply the qualities of real leather, it can be misleading to consumers. The British Standard Glossary of Leather Terms defines leather as hide or skin with its original fibrous structure more or less intact, excluding bonded or reconstituted leather. However, products made from these materials often still use the word leather on their labels, creating confusion and negatively impacting the reputation of genuine leather. With the rise of vegan and synthetic alternatives, clear labelling is essential to ensure consumers can make informed choices. While vegan leather suggests ethical and environmental benefits, it is often made from oil-based plastics, contributing to pollution concerns. As consumers seek sustainable options, accurate information about materials is crucial, and organisations like Leather Naturally promote the use of sustainable leather with transparent manufacturing processes.
| Characteristics | Values |
|---|---|
| Definition of leather | Hide or skin with its original fibrous structure more or less intact, tanned to be imputrescible, where the hair or wool may or may not have been removed |
| Synthetic leather definition | A material intended to substitute for leather in upholstery, clothing, footwear, and other uses where a leather-like finish is desired but the actual material is cost-prohibitive or unsuitable due to practical or ethical concerns |
| Synthetic leather composition | Plastic substances bound with base fabrics |
| Synthetic leather types | Poromerics, leathercloth, Presstoff, Rexine, PU leather, Bicast leather, Bonded leather, Microfiber, Skai, Biocast leather, Pleather, Faux leather, Vegan leather |
| Synthetic leather advantages | Less expensive, requires little maintenance, does not crack or fade easily, soft to the touch, water-resistant, highly resistant to stains, easy to clean, resistant to abrasions and cuts, available in a variety of colours |
| Synthetic leather disadvantages | Feels like plastic to the touch, does not biodegrade, releases harmful chemicals during production, negative environmental impact |
| Synthetic leather misconceptions | 55% of consumers believe PU leather is made of animal hide, consumers are often misled by labels that use the term "leather" for synthetic products |
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What You'll Learn
'Vegan leather' is plastic, not natural
Vegan leather is a term used to describe materials that are not of animal origin. It is important to note that vegan does not necessarily mean natural, and there is no direct relationship between the environmental impact of a product and whether or not it is biodegradable or recyclable. Vegan leather is often artificial or synthetic, typically made from oil-based fossil fuels, such as polyester or nylon coated with PVC or PU (polyurethane, a plastic polymer).
PVC and PU are considered toxic plastics, and while vegan leather made from these materials is not natural, it is also not environmentally friendly. These plastics do not biodegrade and contribute to microplastic pollution in waterways. However, it is worth noting that animal leather is also often coated with plastic to prevent biodegradation.
The term 'vegan leather' encompasses a wide range of materials, and innovations in the industry are moving towards more sustainable options. For example, some companies are creating vegan leather from plant waxes and oils, welded together to form a material with no synthetic binders and no polyurethane coating. This type of vegan leather, while still not natural, is biodegradable and much kinder to the planet.
Additionally, there are vegan leathers made from sustainable and natural sources such as pineapple leaves, cork, apple peels, and other fruit waste. These materials are innovative and eco-friendly, offering a chic and cruelty-free alternative to animal leather. However, it is important to note that even these natural vegan leathers may contain some plastic components, as companies often use recycled plastics for backing or binding.
In conclusion, while vegan leather is not natural, the term encompasses a diverse range of materials, some of which are moving towards sustainability and reducing their plastic content. The environmental impact of vegan leather is complex and varies depending on the specific materials and production methods used.
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'Vegan leather' causes plastic pollution
Vegan leather is a term used to describe leather made from materials that are not of animal origin. It is often marketed as a more sustainable alternative to real leather. However, the use of the term "vegan leather" has been controversial, as it is often associated with plastic pollution.
While there are plant-based and plastic-free alternatives, many types of vegan leather contain plastics such as polyurethane (PU) and polyvinyl chloride (PVC), which are derived from fossil fuels. These plastics are non-biodegradable and can persist in the environment for long periods. The production of these materials is energy-intensive and polluting, emitting greenhouse gases and contaminating soil and water.
The fashion industry has been accused of greenwashing by deliberately concealing the presence of plastics in vegan leather products. A survey found that 74% of respondents were unaware that "vegan leather" often contains plastics. The public is often led to believe that vegan leather is environmentally friendly, when in reality, it contributes to plastic pollution.
The use of plastics in vegan leather can also lead to the release of microplastics during washing, further exacerbating the problem of plastic pollution. Additionally, the chemicals and solvents used in the manufacturing process of faux leather have been found to be toxic, posing risks to human health and the environment.
To address these concerns, some companies are incorporating recycled plastics into their vegan leather production. For example, Dubai-based company Veganologie uses recycled plastic bottles to create vegan leather or suede. By promoting recycled plastics and transparent labelling, consumers can make more informed choices and reduce the environmental impact of vegan leather.
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'Vegan leather' is falsely advertised
The term "vegan leather" is misleading and falsely advertised. Vegan leather is often used to market materials that are not derived from animal sources, implying that they have the same qualities as real leather. However, the term "leather" specifically refers to hide or skin with its original fibrous structure more or less intact, as defined by the British Standard Glossary of Leather Terms (2015) and the International Standard Organisation (ISO).
The use of the term "vegan leather" is deceptive because it suggests that the material is a direct alternative to leather, when in reality, it is typically made from artificial or synthetic materials such as plastic. These synthetic materials, often derived from fossil fuels, include substances like polyester or nylon coated with PVC or PU (polyurethane). While these materials may be free from animal products, they are not necessarily natural or environmentally friendly. In fact, they can have a significant negative impact on the environment due to their petroleum-based origins.
The confusion around the term "vegan leather" has led to consumer misunderstanding and false advertising. Surveys have shown that a significant percentage of consumers believe that PU leather or other plastic-based materials are made from animal hide. This misunderstanding is exacerbated by the lack of clear definitions and product transparency in labeling, particularly in industries such as automotive and furniture.
To address this issue, trade organizations have been cracking down on misleading advertising, and clear laws have been established globally to prevent deceptive practices. However, it is important for consumers to be aware of the true nature of the materials they are purchasing and to seek out detailed information about the content and origin of the products.
While there are genuine vegan leathers made from organic materials such as cork, algae, leaves, or cactus, these are in the minority. Most "vegan leathers" are not impact-resistant, have poor strength and durability, and are less versatile in their applications compared to genuine leather. Therefore, it is essential for consumers to understand the limitations and potential environmental impact of these materials to make informed purchasing decisions.
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'Bonded leather' is not genuine leather
Bonded leather is not genuine leather. While it does contain leather, it is made from the leftovers of the leather production process. These scraps are shredded and ground into a pulp, then bonded together onto a fibre sheet using polyurethane or latex. The percentage of leather in the mix varies, and by law, it only has to be around 20% leather. This means that the quality of bonded leather is significantly lower than that of genuine leather. It is less durable, wearing out and cracking very quickly, and it does not get better with age. It also does not have the same temperature-regulating properties as genuine leather.
The British Standard Glossary of Leather Terms (2015), aligned with centralised European standards, defines leather as:
> Hide or skin with its original fibrous structure more or less intact, tanned to be imputrescible, where the hair or wool may or may not have been removed, whether or not the hide or skin has been split into layers or segmented either before or after tanning and where any surface coating or surface layer, however applied, is not thicker than 0.15 mm.
Note 1 to this entry states:
> If the tanned hide or skin is disintegrated mechanically and/or chemically into fibrous particles, small pieces or powders and then, with or without the combination of a binding agent, is made into sheets or other forms, such sheets or forms are not leather.
This definition makes it clear that bonded leather does not qualify as genuine leather. However, the term "leather" is frequently used on product labels for items containing bonded leather, while the word "bonded" is often conspicuously missing. This misleading use of labels is unfortunately common, causing consumer confusion and negatively impacting the reputation of genuine leather.
To distinguish bonded leather from genuine leather, consumers can look at, touch and smell the product. The surface of bonded leather is uniform, as it has been resurfaced and imprinted by a machine, whereas genuine leather has a non-uniform surface with blemishes and imperfections. When touched, genuine leather feels natural and slightly uneven, stretching and wrinkling when pressed. In contrast, bonded leather feels cold and unnaturally even, and simply depresses under pressure while retaining its shape. Additionally, bonded leather does not have the distinctive "leathery" smell of genuine leather.
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Leather alternatives are unsustainable
While the leather industry has a host of sustainability issues, from the horrors of factory farming to the health issues affecting workers, and its high carbon footprint, it is important to note that not all leather alternatives are sustainable.
Many leather alternatives are made from plastic or fossil-fuel-derived materials. For example, synthetic or artificial leather is usually oil-based from fossil-fuel resources and composed of substances made with polyester or nylon, coated with PVC or PU. While bio-based plastics are used in some leather alternatives, they are still processed into plastic materials, which raises the question of whether it is better to avoid plastic-based leather or animal-derived leather. In addition, PVC leathers are petroleum-based and contain toxins and carcinogens that are harmful to the environment.
Furthermore, the lack of clear definitions and product transparency makes it difficult for consumers to make informed decisions. For instance, the term "bonded leather" is often used to describe products containing leather shavings and leftovers from the leather production process, even though this material cannot be considered genuine leather according to the British Standard Glossary of Leather Terms (2015). Similarly, the automotive industry has faced scrutiny for falsely claiming interiors are leather when they contain artificial materials.
To address these concerns, organizations like Leather Naturally promote the use of globally manufactured sustainable leather and provide resources for understanding modern leather manufacturing and its role in a more sustainable society. Innovators are also developing alternatives that are as durable as leather, such as Piñatex, a leather alternative made from pineapple leaf fibers, and lab-grown leather, made from yeast cell collagen. However, these alternatives have not been widely adopted by the industry, indicating challenges in achieving a broad mindset change and building trust in the durability of these new materials.
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Frequently asked questions
No, it is misleading to call plastic leather. Clear laws have been set down in every country concerning the nature of deception. The British Standard Glossary of Leather Terms (2015), aligned with the centralized European standards, defines leather as "hide or skin with its original fibrous structure more or less intact, tanned to be imputrescible, where the hair or wool may or may not have been removed".
Some examples of plastic being misleadingly labelled as leather include 'bonded leather', 'leathercloth', 'poromerics', PU leather and vegan leather.
Companies may mislabel plastic as leather to market the material to imply it has the beauty, natural quality and longevity associated with real leather.
Mislabelling plastic as leather can mislead consumers about the nature of their purchases and negatively impact the reputation of leather, its heritage and craftsmanship. It can also contribute to the problem of wasteful consumption and plastic pollution.
