Omar Khalid
Plastic is everywhere, and it's no surprise that it's in our wardrobes, too. From polyester trousers to plastic buttons, zippers, and threads, plastic is present in many of the clothes we wear. While some plastics are obvious, like pleather trousers, others are hidden in plain sight, such as the elastic in our waistbands. Even when we can't see it, plastic is there, with synthetic fabrics like polyester and nylon accounting for about 60% of the materials used in clothing globally. With every wash, these fabrics release microplastics into the environment, contributing to ocean pollution and ending up in our food and water. As consumers, we can make informed choices by checking fabric compositions and opting for natural fibres, buying second-hand, or choosing sustainable brands. But ultimately, we need systemic solutions, like legislation and washing machine innovations, to tackle the issue of plastic in our wardrobes.
| Characteristics | Values |
|---|---|
| Common plastics used in clothing | Polyester, nylon, acrylic, spandex/Lycra, elastane, fleece, polyolefin, PVC |
| Other plastic elements in clothing | Zippers, buttons, threads, labels, elastic waistbands |
| Environmental impact | Plastic microfibers from clothing contribute to ocean plastic pollution, are ingested by marine wildlife, and are found in human blood, placenta, breast milk, etc. |
| Reducing plastic in clothing | Buy second-hand, choose natural biodegradable materials (organic cotton, wool, hemp, linen), buy from sustainable brands, wash clothes less frequently and at lower temperatures |
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What You'll Learn
Buttons, zippers, and fasteners
Buttons:
Buttons have adorned our garments for centuries, evolving from primitive ties and clasps into decorative and functional fasteners. Originally crafted from natural materials like wood, bone, and shell, buttons have since embraced more durable options, including plastic. This transition has enhanced their longevity and expanded the possibilities for intricate and aesthetically pleasing designs. In the modern era, buttons not only serve a practical purpose but also act as fashion statements, reflecting the garment's intended use and the brand's identity. They are easy to sew on and come in a wide variety of materials, shapes, and colours.
Zippers:
Zippers, originally known as "clasp lockers," emerged as revolutionary alternatives to traditional fasteners. Invented by Whitcomb L. Judson in 1892, zippers offered a quicker and more efficient way to secure garments. Their early applications were in footwear and luggage, but they gradually made their way into work apparel, valued for their versatility and efficiency. Zippers come in a wide range of materials, including metal and plastic, and can be made waterproof and sealed against the elements. They are also easier to manage for certain individuals, such as those with physical disabilities or children. Additionally, zippers have evolved beyond mere closures, becoming design elements and branding tools, adorning jackets, pants, and accessories.
Fasteners:
Beyond buttons and zippers, other types of fasteners, such as buckles, magnets, and snap fasteners (snap buttons), play a crucial role in clothing design. Buckles, with a history dating back to ancient times, were initially forged from bronze for soldiers' use and later passed down to the wealthy. Today, they are found on belts, bags, coats, and various fashion items, made from materials beyond just metal. Snap fasteners, while increasing in popularity, are a four-part component that can enhance the functionality of a garment.
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Polyester, nylon, and acrylic
Polyester is a widely used synthetic fabric, accounting for a large portion of the materials used in clothing globally. It is created by applying heat and pressure to petroleum-based acid and alcohol, resulting in a plastic substance known as a polyester polymer. This polymer can be reshaped into various forms, giving it versatility in its applications. Polyester is often blended with natural fibres to create a cloth with enhanced properties, such as wrinkle and tear resistance, and improved stain protection. However, it has lower fire resistance than natural fibres and may melt when ignited. Additionally, polyester's extraction from fossil fuels contributes to a high carbon footprint and significant byproducts. It also has a long decomposition time, similar to acrylic fabric, taking more than 200 years to break down.
Nylon is the second most commonly used synthetic fabric after polyester. It was developed by Dupont over an 11-year period and was introduced in 1938. Nylon emerged as an alternative to silk and hemp for parachutes during World War II. It has excellent abrasion resistance, outperforming both natural and synthetic fibres in this regard. Nylon fabric also has superior moisture absorption compared to polyester, making it more comfortable to wear. However, it requires careful washing and maintenance to avoid damaging the fabric.
Acrylic fabric is another synthetic fabric made from plastic threads. It is produced through a chemical process using fossil fuels, similar to the creation of nylon and polyester. Acrylic fabric has a fluffy feel and good stretch, resembling woollen fabrics without being as active. However, it is not resistant to abrasion and is prone to pilling, which limits its durability. Acrylic fabric is also hydrophobic, repelling water, which can lead to bacterial growth and odour issues. Like polyester, it is flammable and can be challenging to extinguish. Acrylic fabric's long decomposition time, estimated at up to 200 years, contributes to environmental concerns.
These synthetic fabrics have become prevalent in the fashion industry due to their affordability, versatility, and functionality. However, their widespread use has also led to environmental challenges, as microplastics shed from these fabrics during washing, contributing to ocean plastic pollution and ending up in the food chain.
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Elastane, Lycra, and Spandex
Elastane, also known as Spandex or Lycra, is a synthetic fibre with exceptional elasticity. It is composed of at least 85% polyurethane by weight and is known by different names in different regions. In North America, it is commonly referred to as Spandex, while in continental Europe, it is referred to as variants of elastane, such as élasthanne in France and Elastan in Germany and Sweden. In the UK, Ireland, Portugal, Spain, Latin America, Australia, and New Zealand, it is primarily known as Lycra.
The fibre was invented in 1958 by chemist Joseph Shivers at DuPont, which chose the trade name Lycra (originally called Fiber K) to distinguish its brand of spandex fibre. DuPont conducted market research to understand women's needs from textiles and developed fibres to meet those needs, including a better fibre for women's girdles, which were commonly made of rubber at the time. The association of Lycra with fitness was established at the 1968 Winter Olympic Games when the French ski team wore Lycra garments, and it gained further popularity in the 1970s with the emergence of the women's liberation movement and the decline in girdle sales.
Spandex proved to be a popular fibre in the garment industry, and by 1987, DuPont had trouble meeting worldwide demand. Its exceptional elasticity enhances the comfort of clothing by increasing pressure comfort and allowing for a full range of body movements. It is often combined with other materials like polyester, which enhances durability and quick drying, making it ideal for high-intensity activities like dance.
However, most clothes containing spandex are difficult to recycle. Even a small percentage of spandex inclusion can render the fabric incompatible with most mechanical recycling machines. Additionally, the microplastics shed by synthetic materials like spandex contribute to ocean plastic pollution, as they are released into the environment during washing and are small enough to pass through sewage treatment plants.
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Pleather and synthetic leather
Pleather, also known as faux leather, is a plastic material designed to look and feel like genuine leather. It is an industrial product made entirely of plastic materials, such as PVC and polyurethane (PU), which are synthetic components that closely mimic the appearance and texture of real leather. Pleather is often used as a more affordable and widely available alternative to genuine leather, offering flexibility, breathability, and ease of maintenance. However, it tends to deteriorate over time, developing creases or scratches, and has a more uniform appearance due to machine-applied grain patterns.
Synthetic leather, on the other hand, is a broader term that includes both plastic-based and plant-based alternatives to genuine leather. Synthetic leather is usually made with synthetic components like PU, nylon, and PVC to resemble real leather. Sometimes these materials are labelled as 'Vegan Leather' or 'Eco-Leather' to indicate that they are not derived from animals. However, technically, these materials are not leather but a marketing shorthand to describe them. Synthetic leather often has a rubbery or shiny surface, feels colder to the touch, and may have a distinctive plastic smell.
The distinction between pleather and synthetic leather can be confusing as there is some overlap between the two terms. Some sources use the term "synthetic leather" specifically for plastic-based alternatives to genuine leather, while others use it as an umbrella term that includes both plastic-based and plant-based alternatives. It's important to read labels carefully and look for certifications to understand the composition of the material.
In terms of sustainability, both pleather and synthetic leather have advantages and disadvantages. Pleather, or faux leather, is often criticised for being polluting, especially when compared to genuine leather, which can be recycled and biodegrade. However, the production of synthetic leather may reduce waste from the food industry, as animal skins from sheep, pigs, and cattle can be utilised instead of being discarded. Additionally, synthetic leather made from plant-based components can be more environmentally friendly, but it is important to look for transparent labelling that states the percentage of plant-based and other combined materials.
Overall, when considering the environmental impact of wearing and using pleather and synthetic leather products, it is essential to look beyond just the end-of-life recycling and also consider the manufacturing processes, the use of resources, and the potential for pollution during the product's lifespan.
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Sewing threads and labels
Plastic is prevalent in the fashion industry, from the clothes we wear to the very threads that hold them together. Plastic thread is an innovative material used in a variety of applications, favoured for its durability, versatility, lightweight nature, and resistance to various environmental factors. It is commonly used in clothing and upholstery manufacturing, providing greater flexibility, cost-effectiveness, and efficiency.
The use of plastic thread in sewing and crafting is becoming more widespread, with its unique properties making it ideal for specific tasks. For example, filament thread, a type of plastic thread, is preferred for delicate sewing tasks and lightweight fabrics due to its fine and smooth texture. On the other hand, PVC thread, made from polyvinyl chloride, is suitable for outdoor applications as it is weather-resistant, moisture-resistant, and UV-resistant.
In addition to its use in the textile industry, plastic thread is also used in medical applications, such as the production of sutures, due to its biocompatible properties. It is even utilised in craft projects and outdoor gear, demonstrating its adaptability and utility across various fields.
When it comes to the labels in our clothing, plastic is also prevalent. The challenge of removing synthetic materials from clothing labels was highlighted by circularity consultant and designer Courtney Holm, who noted the difficulty in sourcing natural material labels. This often leads to recycled plastic options or bio-based alternatives being used.
The presence of plastic in our clothing, from the threads to the labels, has raised concerns about its environmental impact. Washing plastic-containing garments can contribute to ocean plastic pollution, as tiny plastic fibres shed from the clothes and enter the sewage system, eventually making their way into the ocean. This has led to a growing awareness of sustainable practices in the fashion industry, with an emphasis on choosing natural materials, buying second-hand, and supporting transparent and sustainable brands.
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Frequently asked questions
Many of the clothes we wear contain plastic. Some common plastics that are used in clothing include polyester, nylon, acrylic, and elastane. Even if the fabric of a garment is not made of plastic, other components such as buttons, zippers, and threads often are.
Synthetic fibres are popular in the fashion industry because they are cheap and versatile. They can be used to make winter clothes warm and provide breathability in sports clothing. However, the production of synthetic fabrics has a significant environmental impact. For example, the process of producing nylon releases nitrous oxide, a greenhouse gas that is 300 times more potent than carbon dioxide.
Plastic-based fabrics are non-biodegradable and can take hundreds of years to decompose, leading to land pollution. When washed, synthetic fibres come off clothes and pass through sewage treatment plants, eventually reaching the ocean and contributing to microplastic pollution. These microplastics are ingested by marine wildlife and can also end up in our food and drinks, posing health risks to humans.
