Ethan Clarke
Installing a plastic chair rail is a simple DIY project that can add a touch of elegance to your room. Chair rails were originally used to protect walls from being damaged by chairs, but they now serve as a stylish and inexpensive way to embellish a space. With the right tools and supplies, you can install a chair rail in just a couple of days and transform the look of your room. This introduction will guide you through the process of installing a plastic chair rail, from selecting the appropriate molding to achieving a professional finish.
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What You'll Learn
Planning and preparation
Planning:
Firstly, determine the height of your chair rail. The standard height is around 32 inches, or about one-third of the way up from the floor, but you can adjust this based on the height of your chairs or for a more dramatic effect. Mark the desired height on the wall with a pencil or masking tape to visualise it better.
Next, decide on the style and type of chair rail you want. It can be narrow or wide, depending on the look you're going for, but make sure it will lie relatively flat against your wall. If you have wainscoting, choose a chair rail with a groove at the bottom to cover it neatly.
Preparation:
Before you begin installation, it is important to paint, paper, or panel the wall behind where the chair rail will go. This is because it is simpler to do so before the rail is installed, and it can add a stylish effect to the room.
Now, locate the studs in your wall and mark their positions. Stud finders can be used for this, but be aware that they may detect other things like water pipes. Most construction places the studs at regular intervals, usually 16" to 24" apart.
After marking the stud positions, use a level and measuring tape to draw a guideline around the room at the desired chair rail height. If your floor is not level, you may need to adjust the guideline accordingly to ensure the chair rail doesn't look crooked.
Finally, measure the length of your chair rail carefully, especially if you need to turn corners that are not 90 degrees. Measure twice, cut once, and remember to add a little extra length to account for mistakes and miter cuts.
With these planning and preparation steps completed, you'll be well on your way to a successful chair rail installation!
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Cutting the plastic chair rail
Cutting plastic chair rails require skill and knowledge, and the use of sensitive equipment. Before you begin, prepare your safety equipment, such as gloves, and your cutting devices. You can use either a miter box and a hand saw or a power miter saw. A miter box is a tool that helps you make angled cuts, which are often necessary when cutting chair rails. An angle gauge and a coping saw are also useful if you want straight and perfect cuts and fittings during installation.
Before cutting, determine the length of the materials you will use for your chair rail installation. Measure appropriately and precisely to avoid unnecessary gaps and overlaps in your structure. Measure twice, cut once. If in doubt, cut a bit too long, as it is easier to trim a little extra than to replace missing material.
When cutting your chair rail, always do a vertical position on your miter box. The back of the chair rail profile must touch the wall of the miter box. Cut the chair rail following the markings you previously made. In cutting angled corners, precision is crucial. There are two main types of corner cuts for chair rail installation: the inside corner cut and the outside corner cut. For an inside corner cut, you can do a traditional 45-degree angled inside cut on both adjoining sides of the chair rail pieces. However, if the corner of the wall is not a precise 90 degrees, you may need to adjust the angle.
The coping technique is a process used by experts in carpentry to join corner pieces. Cut one corner piece straight without any angle, and then cut the other component in a 45-degree traditional cut using a miter saw or a hand saw with a miter box. This will ensure the outline of the chair rail's profile is clear. Using a coping saw, cut along the chair rail's profile line with a 45-degree inside angle cut. This coped piece will now fit perfectly into the other piece. For an outside corner cut, a traditional 45-degree cut from the back to the profile is the best method.
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Attaching the chair rail to the wall
If you are using nails, first locate the studs in the wall and mark their positions with pencil or masking tape. You can use a level and measuring tape to draw a guideline around the room at the desired height of the chair rail. When you are happy with the positioning, drive finishing nails through the chair rail and into the studs. Be careful not to hit the moulding with the hammer, as it will mark. Use a nail set to recess the nails slightly, so that the heads are inset, and then fill the holes with putty or wood filler.
If you are gluing the chair rail to the wall, apply construction adhesive or wood glue to the back of the rail and press it into place. You may need to prop the moulding or tape it in place until the glue dries. You can also use a combination of glue and nails, using the glue at the joints and to reduce the number of nails required.
If your chair rail has corners, you can either bevel the ends or use a coping method. Beveling involves making a bevel cut at a 45-degree angle so that the two pieces meet flush. The coping method involves cutting the chair rail silhouette with a coping saw and ensuring a tight fit.
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Caulking and filling nail holes
Caulking:
- Clean the surface: Before applying any caulk, ensure that the surface is clean and free of debris. Use a damp cloth or brush to wipe down the area where the chair rail will be installed.
- Select the appropriate caulk: Choose a paintable caulk that is suitable for filling gaps and joints. Latex caulk is a popular option and can be easily applied with your finger or a damp grout sponge.
- Cut the caulk tube: Using a caulking gun, load the tube of caulk and cut the tip at a 45-degree angle. The hole should be the appropriate size for the joints you are filling.
- Apply the caulk: Lay a bead of caulk along the top and bottom edges of the molding where it meets the wall. Use your finger or a damp sponge to tool the caulk, pushing it into the joints and creating a smooth finish. Wipe away any excess caulk with a damp cloth or sponge.
- Allow the caulk to dry: Follow the instructions on the caulk packaging for the recommended drying time. Latex caulk typically dries within 24 hours.
Filling Nail Holes:
- Recess the nail heads: Use a nail set to recess the nail heads slightly into the molding. This will ensure that the nails are inset and don't protrude from the surface.
- Prime the wood: Apply a thin coat of primer to the nail holes and surrounding area. This will seal the wood and provide a base for the filler to adhere to.
- Fill the nail holes: Use wood filler or a glazing compound to fill the recessed nail holes and any gaps at the joints. Apply the filler with a putty knife, ensuring that it is pushed deeply into the holes.
- Sand the filler: Once the filler is dry, lightly sand the filled areas to create a smooth and even surface. Use fine-grit sandpaper and sand in the direction of the wood grain.
- Touch-ups: After sanding, you may need to apply a final coat of paint or varnish to match the surrounding molding. Allow the touch-ups to dry, and your plastic chair rail will be installed seamlessly!
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Painting and finishing
If you plan to paint the wall, it is best to do so before installing the chair rail. However, you can also paint the walls below the chair rail after installation. It is important to ensure that your tape lines are completely straight, as you will install the chair rail along these lines. Re-tape your walls once the paint has dried, and reapply the painter's tape based on your exact measurements.
Before painting, fill in any nail holes and caulk the joints where the ends of the chair rail segments meet. Sand the filler and joints lightly, and then apply a bead of caulk at the top and bottom edge of the moulding where it meets the wall. Finally, complete any touch-ups or finish coats as necessary.
If you are using a nail gun to install the chair rail, always wear protective eyewear.
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Frequently asked questions
The chair rail should be placed one-third of the way up the wall from the floor, typically between 30 and 36 inches high. Compare its height to your furnishings to achieve a unified look.
Paint, paper, or panel the wall behind where the chair rail will go. Then, locate the studs in the wall and mark them with a pencil or masking tape.
Measure the length of the chair rail carefully. If you are turning corners that are not 90 degrees, measure the angle, divide by two, and cut the chair rail on each side of the corner at the half-angle measurement.
Apply wood glue or construction adhesive to the back of the chair rail and attach it to the wall at the marked height. Secure each piece with finishing nails driven into the studs.
Use a nail set to recess the nails slightly into the molding. Putty over the nails and caulk the joints where the ends of the chair rail meet. Sand the filler and joints, then paint or varnish the wall as desired.
