Sofia Martinez
Plastic stops on drawers are essential for safety, as they prevent the drawers from being pulled out too far, which could cause the contents to spill or the dresser to tip over. While removing drawers with plastic stops is generally easy and often requires no tools, replacing them can be tricky. This is because manufacturers don't all employ the same stop mechanism, and plastic stops can easily break when removing drawers. To replace plastic stops, you will first need to identify the type of stopping mechanism used and then find a suitable replacement. In some cases, you may need to order new tracks or slides if the plastic stops are not available separately.
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What You'll Learn
Identify the type of drawer and stopping mechanism
The first step to replacing drawers with plastic stops is to identify the type of drawer and stopping mechanism. This is important because the removal process can vary depending on the type of drawer and the specific stopping mechanism in place.
There are several types of drawers commonly found in furniture, including wood-glide drawers, metal-glide drawers, and free-rolling drawers. Wood-glide drawers typically have wooden runners that allow the drawer to slide in and out of the cabinet. Metal-glide drawers feature metal tracks or rollers that facilitate the movement of the drawer. Free-rolling drawers, on the other hand, usually have wheels or a lip on the back edge that moves along a track.
Stopping mechanisms are safety features designed to prevent drawers from being pulled out too far or falling out accidentally. These mechanisms can vary in design and complexity. Some common types of stopping mechanisms include:
- Plastic tabs or stops: These are often found on the back or side of drawers with wooden glides or metal runners. They are usually attached with screws and prevent the drawer from being removed.
- Built-in safety-lock stops: Found on telescoping glides of some drawers, such as file cabinets and desks. These stops can be challenging to release without knowing the specific mechanism.
- Small raised lips: Free-rolling drawers often have a small raised lip on the front side of the interior track, preventing the drawer from sliding out accidentally.
- Stabilizer screws or anti-tip cables: Some drawers may have stabilizer screws that need to be removed before the drawer can be pulled out. Anti-tip cables are another safety feature that prevents the drawer from being removed without first disconnecting the cable.
Once you have identified the type of drawer and stopping mechanism, you can proceed to the next steps of removing the drawer and replacing the plastic stops. It is important to understand the specific design of your drawer and stopping mechanism to ensure a smooth and safe replacement process.
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Remove contents and tilt the drawer
Before removing a drawer, it is important to first verify that it has plastic stops. A tell-tale sign is that the drawer can be opened almost all the way, but not entirely. If the drawer is full, it is best to remove its contents. An empty drawer is easier to handle and manoeuvre. However, a partially full drawer can also be removed. If you are removing all the drawers from a dresser or cabinet, start with the top one and work your way down to prevent weight imbalance and tipping.
To remove the drawer, place one hand under it near the back to support it, then pull gently. Once the stop clears the facing and the drawer is free, transfer both hands to the sides and lift it out of the cabinet. If the drawer has metal glides that slide along plastic wheels, you will need to work the wheels along the curved section at the back of the glides as you lift the front and pull. This may require a little extra wiggling, but the drawer can usually be removed with little effort.
In some cases, you might need a screwdriver to loosen or remove the stops. Open the drawer far enough to reach inside with a screwdriver. Locate each stop, using a flashlight or your sense of touch, then try bending it or rotating it. You may have to unscrew the screw holding it to the drawer. There may be one or two stops per drawer, and each one is usually held by a single screw. When you loosen the screw sufficiently, you can usually rotate the stop downward and out of the way so you can remove the drawer. If the stop won't rotate, back the screw out all the way and take the stop off.
If the drawer still won't come out, try gently raising the front of the drawer. If it moves, it’s in a track and you can slide the drawer away at an angle. If it doesn’t move, remove the hardware on the railing to free the drawer from the furniture. You may need to rock or jostle the drawer to help free the wheels from the track, but be careful not to be too rough, or you could damage it or its attached hardware.
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Loosen or remove the plastic stop
In some cases, the plastic stop may be a small, soft plastic blob at the back of the slide (cabinet side rail). This can be carefully shaved down or deformed with pliers to ease up the stickiness of the drawer. Alternatively, you can remove the rubber stop at the back and add some felt to smoothen the drawer's movement.
For older cabinets and dressers, the stops may be screwed to the back of the drawer and extend upward to strike the back side of the cabinet facing, preventing the drawer from falling out. These stops can be moved out of the way or removed completely to take out the drawer.
If your drawer has metal glides that slide along plastic wheels, you'll need to work the wheels along the curved section at the back of the glides as you lift the front and pull. This may require a little extra wiggling, but the drawer can usually be removed with minimal effort.
Finally, some drawers have built-in safety-lock stops, and unless you know how to release these, removing the drawer may be impossible. In such cases, it's best to consult the manufacturer or a professional for guidance.
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Lift the drawer out of the cabinet
To lift a drawer out of a cabinet, begin by opening the drawer as far as it will go. If the drawer has plastic stops, you will not be able to pull it out completely. In this case, you may need to use a screwdriver to loosen or remove the stops. You can then try bending or rotating the stop. If this does not work, you will need to completely unscrew it.
Once the stops have been removed, place one hand under the drawer near the back to support it, then pull gently. When the drawer is free, transfer both hands to the sides and lift it out of the cabinet. If the drawer has metal glides that slide along plastic wheels, you will need to work the wheels along the curved section at the back of the glides as you lift the front and pull. This may require a little extra wiggling, but the drawer should come out with little effort.
If your drawer has stabilizer screws, you will need to remove these before lifting the drawer out. These are usually found on heavy-duty drawers such as filing cabinets. Remove the screws holding the drawer in place, then lift the drawer out of the cabinet.
If your drawer has anti-tip cables, you will need to identify the cable and unscrew the fastener that attaches it to the drawer.
If your drawer has a track, try gently raising the front of the drawer. If it moves, slide the drawer away at an angle. If it does not move, remove any hardware on the railing to free the drawer from the cabinet.
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Repeat for other drawers
To replace drawers with plastic stops, start by verifying that the drawer does indeed have plastic stops. You'll know it has them if you can open the drawer almost all the way, but not quite. If the drawer opens only three-quarters of the way, the stops are probably built into the metal glides on the side. If the drawer is full, remove some of its contents. Ideally, the drawer should be completely empty, but a partially full drawer can also be removed.
Now, open the drawer far enough to allow you to reach inside with a screwdriver. Locate each stop, using a flashlight or your sense of touch, then try bending it or rotating it. You may have to unscrew the screw holding it to the drawer. There may be one or two stops per drawer, and each one is usually held by a single screw. When you loosen the screw sufficiently, you can usually rotate the stop downward and out of the way so you can remove the drawer. If the stop won't rotate, back the screw out all the way and take the stop off.
Next, place one hand under the drawer near the back to support it, then pull gently. Once the stop clears the facing, and the drawer is free, transfer both hands to the sides of the drawer and lift it out of the cabinet. If the drawer has metal glides that slide along plastic wheels, you'll have to work the wheels along the curved section at the back of the glides as you lift the front and pull. This may take a little extra wiggling, but you can usually remove the drawer with little effort.
Finally, to repeat the process for other drawers, start by emptying the drawer of its contents to make it lighter and easier to handle. Then, follow the same steps as outlined above for removing the plastic stops and the drawer. Place one hand under the drawer near the back to support it, then pull gently. Once the stop clears the facing, remove the drawer by transferring both hands to the sides of the drawer and lifting it out of the cabinet. Work the wheels along the curved section at the back of the glides if necessary.
Repeat these steps for any additional drawers you need to remove.
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Frequently asked questions
If your drawer opens almost all the way but doesn't quite open fully, it probably has plastic stops.
First, make sure the drawer is empty. Then, open the drawer as far as it will go. Place one hand under the back of the drawer to support it, then pull gently. Once the stop clears the facing, transfer both hands to the sides of the drawer and lift it out.
Usually not, but in some cases, you might need a screwdriver to loosen or remove the stops.
Fit the drawer onto the slides and push it all the way in. Test that it's working correctly by pulling out the drawer while supporting it to make sure it halts on the stops.
